Melbourne might be famous for its four seasons in one day, but in St Kilda there are only two that you need to know about.

Spring and Summer is a new Asian diner that’s transformed a gloomy former Irish pub into a bright and breezy split-level dining room with seating for 50.

The menu draws on head chef and co-owner Peerasut “Golf” Laovanich’s Thai heritage and three years working at hot spots Chin Chin, Kong BBQ and Hawker Hall. He also brings in some Korean, Japanese, Singaporean and Malaysian flavours with impressive balance and harmony.

Open with kingfish sashimi that’s on par with the town’s best – supple slivers of fish doused in a coconut cream and a perky green nam jim sauce. Or try the charred corn cobs draped in gochujang Korean chilli paste and smoked cheddar for a juicy, lip-tingling mood-setter.

The beef pad see ew is a smoky- sweet wok-kissed tangle of tender wagyu pieces and rolled-up parcels of rice noodles that’s memorable long after the bowl is scooped clean. Ditto for the papaya salad heaped with slices of tender pork belly and topped with curls of crackling.

Or if you want some fire, you can’t go past the sirloin beef jungle curry.

Drinks run to a tight, well-priced wine list, a decent assortment of quality beers and a selection of cool cocktails like the rum-soaked Full Moon Party, or the Thai-inspired Lemongrass Mojito.

Well-drilled and happy staff serve food here that hits that critical template of heat, sweet, sour and salty in vibrant, well-crafted and utterly delectable dishes. Enjoy the fun. ’Tis the season.