Our culinary history doesn’t date back as far as most cultures, though it is rich for its own reasons. The new wave of Australian dining was spawned from our lack of historical shackles and the bravery of those chefs before it.

There is, culinary speaking, not really any ‘traditional handcuffs’ to break free from as such. Our wine industry has benefitted from the same freedom. It means there are no bounds – which can cause its own problems.

Although tradition and history provide a basis, a backbone and often a lesson, it can have an awful habit of weighing ones shoulders down quite heavily.

New restaurant St Claude’s in Paddington is housed in the site of one of Sydney’s most influential restaurants – Claude’s. A restaurant that helped paint our culinary picture through various decades under the watchful eye of a string of award-winning owners – Claude Cornes, Damien Pignolet, Tim Pak Poy and Chui Lee Luk.

Each owner was, perhaps, consumed to continue on the Claude’s tradition – rather than their own aspirations – and ultimately the beautiful beast was stopped in its tracks a few years ago.

When talking restaurants and change of ownership, I’m inclined to forget the past. Why is it relevant to carry another’s burden when it’s a new operator, new chef and, quite frankly, something different.

It’s an easy link for journos I guess and the name – St Claude’s – does seem to be somewhat of a hat–tilt to the site’s past.

Here head chef Cameron Johnston has joined forces with Stewart and Jessica Parsons of Bronte Road Bistro fame – a fantastic little local in itself – to deliver nothing more than a solid French bistro.

Johnston has been manning the pans at Balmoral’s Bather’s Pavilion, but he is also an alumni of the original Claude’s, oddly enough.

They’ve kept the bar but warmed the room with olive green walls, white double linen tablecloths and wooden floorboards.

Upstairs the walls are lighter. Grey banquets, dotted with yellow cushions, line the wall and Scandinavian-esque bistro chairs add a sense of casual class. The staff are fun, honest and genuinely happy to have you in and make sure you want to come back. And you will.

There’s still that familiar peak into the kitchen at the base of the stairs adding theatre, and Johnston is worth watching – the lad can certainly cook. Confit rabbit terrine arrives with a cos lettuce round at its centre. It’s fabulously fatty and textural and the accompanying cornichons play nicely against that, though I’m not convinced by the house-made ale jelly. The texture is more apple puree, and its flavour non-descript bitterness. Meanwhile thick slices of veal tongue are chargrilled to order. The cauliflower puree is spot on, and although the macerated cranberries are a tad over-powering, it’s a solid dish. Truth is, the entrees are pretty good, but the mains are swoon-worthy.

Soft, sweet sous vide free-range chicken breast is delightful – especially smeared in sea urchin butter, offering a big swoosh of the sea. Then a blushing red rangers valley bavette (flank steak) yearns to lick up the cured egg yolk and miso puddle on the plate. Asparagus ties it all together, providing a tool to mop up the mess.

We finish by dropping a quenelle of lime cream in the centre of a rhubarb and ginger soufflé. It’s light and seriously legit.

The flair and confidence of this casual French Bistro is evident. It’s not trying to ascend to the nose-bleeding heights of haute cuisine of Claude’s history.

St Claude’s may not have forgotten the past, but it’s on track to make its own future.