In a suburb swarming with neighbourhood haunts, Stanbuli stands out from the crowd. A slick operation, Ibrahim Kasif’s food speaks for itself, alongside the excellent and highly affable service.

Stanbuli is a tribute to the classic meyhanes of Turkey, injected with a hint of rockabilly. At this buzzy Enmore eatery, vibrant share plates of mezze are exceptional, heroing plant-based dishes that are big on flavour, low on fuss and will have you dreaming of the Anatolian coast. Slow-braised spinach and rice is served with a refreshing dollop of yoghurt; house-pickled beets and potato with boiled egg manages to be earthy, sweet and tangy all at once, while patlican, a house favourite, is a luscious smoky eggplant salad that leaves baba ghanoush for dead. Order extra ekmek, the lovely charred flatbread that’s perfect for mopping up sauces.

There is a connectedness to this type of cooking that transcends the need to be seen and heard; tradition, history and flavour are at the forefront of Kasif’s food, and while, in theory, the food could come off as rustic and homely, instead it feels deeply finessed and thoughtful. Lamb forequarter chops are sensational. Mirool Creek lamb is simply seasoned with the hero spices of Anatolia and the flavour from the wood grill brings depth and interest to the meat. A modest shepherd’s salad, the classic combination of ripe tomato, cucumber, peppers and onion, is simply dressed with a sprinkling of sumac. It’s light, refreshing food that you could eat any night of the week. Kasif dares to be true to himself and it pays off.