For many a good-living Melburnian there is only one restaurant that matters, and for them their beachy clubhouse returned not a moment too soon last summer after a devastating fire. For others, a magnificent view across Port Phillip Bay, a comprehensive cellar that’s filled with the four-figured best of Burgundy, along with many a more affordable drop, and a seafood-leaning menu remains as compelling a reason to visit the reborn Stokehouse.

After a hiccup-y start, the world’s first six-star energy efficient restaurant has settled into a groove, still the place the coiffed and coutured come for Champagne and prawn tacos, riesling and ceviche in a breezy pastel-hued and blonde-wood room.

The broad menu has multiple access points. There’s a winning raw bar and snacks, with a dedicated bar area for freshly shucked oysters. However, given its prime beachside position, how Stockhouse continues to get fish and chips so incredibly wrong (overcooked fish, flaccid batter, floury chips, forgettable tartare) is a mystery worthy of Remington Steele. At least name-checked steak comes expertly cooked.

It’s indicative of an uneven menu of hits – raw scallop with pickled ginger; perfect pancetta-wrapped chicken, and misses – raw kingfish dressed in warm ponzu unpleasantly half-cooking the fish.

Desserts, from new hire Lauren Eldridge blaze a confident trail. Sure there’s the ‘bombe’ that’s been on the menu since time immemorial, but these 2017 additions are reason enough to return. A bittersweet, puckeringly sharp grapefruit sorbet covered in torched meringue shards is a bright full stop to a Sunday seafood extravaganza, while rosewater panna cotta hiding toffee pistachios and orange jam is deftly exotic and outrageously good.

Stokehouse is back with a new mojo – a killer room and a swinging crowd as much the drawcard as executive chef Richard Ousby’s broad-appeal, seafood-strong menu.

Must-eat dish: Raw scallop, pickled ginger
Instagram: @stokehousestkilda