Now, not only is Stokehouse the first Australian restaurant to achieve a five-star Green Star rating for its design, but such policies as hiring staff who can walk, ride or catch public transport to work show a commitment to sustainability.

Seafood is a renewed focus under executive chef Jason Staudt and the $55-a-head seafood platter is worth the splurge, a showcase of Australia’s best with Queensland prawns, delicate WA marron and smoked Murray cod belly.

But it’s in other dishes where new ideas are artfully executed – such as the beef tartare. Served like a carpaccio, it teams Gippsland beef with confit onion, its caramelised sweetness countering the funky crunch of fermented brussels sprouts. The velvety meat, the beef fat mayo, the cured yolk to finish – it’s extraordinarily good.

Ash Smith’s equally clever desserts, whether a fluffy whisky baba with sorbet or a cheesecake with pepitas, honey jelly and sherry vinegar ice cream, are the stuff of dreams. Stokehouse has never been better.

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.