Passerby ambling along Noosa Heads’ Sunshine Beach Road could easily miss this petite restaurant, wedged into a corner between stores and cafes that have shut shop for the night. Yet, behind the glass doors of Sumi Open Kitchen lies Chef Giles Hohnen’s homage to traditional Japanese omakase – or, ‘trust the chef’ – dining. As guests enter the well-orchestrated kitchen, the modest chef greets each person as if they’re a regular.

Wooden accents, warm lighting and no-fuss décor informs patrons that the focus here is on the cooking.

What arrives on the table is as much a work of art as it is a delicious nod to traditional Japanese fare. A collection of small ceramic bowls is placed before diners with each new course, offering strikingly presented morsels – each more creative than the last.

A highly enthusiastic Japanese staff talks you through the evening’s ever-changing, seasonal menu, highlighting locally sourced produce, from which diners can choose a four- or six-course degustation. Pair it with a glass or bottle from the solid selection of organic wines, or better yet, opt for the sake pairing, featuring Junmai – or ‘pure rice’ – sips from small and family-owned sake breweries, which are also available individually.

In a demonstration of understated theatre, guests can watch on as Hohnen wields a large flame torch to gently sear mackerel, or as he cooks duck tsukune (the Japanese answer to a kebab, or skewered meatball) over the teppan. Uncommon dishes like Mooloolaba Prawn chawanmushi (a steamed egg custard) ensure guests sample fare they won’t find at their local sushi restaurant – offering a chance to learn more about this diverse cuisine.

Exceptional dish (or dishes): Duck tsukune, the Japanese equivalent of a meatball served on a skewer.