In terms of wine, it’s all about preservative-free, organic and biodynamic, orange and skin contact styles, much of the by-the-glass and carafe list stemming from the nearby sheds of Aristologist proprietors under their own Lucy Margaux, Commune of Buttons and Comme Ci Comme Ca labels. You can simply relax with a wine here, at an interior communal table, a couple of booths and window bench, or outside on a roadside terrace.

But ignoring the food offering is hard if you are inside, where an open kitchen is up close and personal. The menu is small and seasonal, with vegetables and herbs sourced from the kitchen’s own garden in nearby Basket Range. Lighter dishes – bread is considered as a full entree – range from fresh curd with fermented tomato, to potato and mussels, or Australian salmon wrapped in sorrel leaf with an anise hyssop dressing.

Larger dishes include leeks with bread and almond sauce, trevally with bone sauce and greens, and a juicy, brined and roasted chicken breast with parsnip mash and greens. Desserts are simple and fruit based.

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