Unashamedly pitched at the pointiest end of Melbourne dining, Sun Kitchen is the new Sichuan/Cantonese rebrand of what was Albert Park’s fancy fine diner, The Point. Now it’s two levels of hotpots and dumplings and tanks full of snow crabs and crays, abalone and coral trout, with high-end seafood a focus across the large menu.

Don’t miss the “sautéed milk”, a puffy cloud of whipped milky egg whites in which chunky crab meat is strewn. It’s an absolute knockout of a dish. 

From the Cantonese canon you’ll find prawns, fried crunchy and served in a lurid orange coconut and ginger sauce in which the respective sweet and heat riff off the meat, while a bowl of beef hor fun – wok-tossed beef with noodles – is simple, tasty stuff.

And while the sizzling chilli fish looks like a cauldron from the depths of hell with fat fillets of fish swimming in a soup of a thousand Sichuan and red peppercorns and a field of wok-fried chilies, don’t be scared. It’s a marvellously dexterous dish and the layers of heat – from the chilli base notes through the lingering antiseptic tingle of Sichuan pepper – deliver a deftly delicious high.

Filled to bursting with big-name local heroes and four- and five-figured Burgundies, the wine cellar is built for Black Amexes in the market for big, showy gestures, while the view across the lake remains as glorious as ever. 

Must Eat Dish: Sauteed milk with crab meat topped with dried scallop