Four years after opening in true Melbourne fashion down an unassuming laneway, Khanh Nguyen’s Southeast Asian stalwart still goes strong. Take a journey across Vietnam via Indonesia, Malaysia and outback Australia while tasting Nguyen’s refined four-course menu, packing extra snackage at your choosing.

His clever mash-ups include the signature oysters bobbing in curry oil and coconut milk as well as the Indo-classic otak otak remixed as a spanner crab curry pate coated over puffy rice cakes. Flame-kissed hiramasa kingfish tiles come to life in a native celebration of vibrant green apple, river mint and starfruit, while texture is taken to a new level in the winter-warmer koshihikari congee comforted by glossy egg yolk, enoki mushrooms and wild rice puffs.

Pretty as an Insta-pic Northern Territory barramundi, lapping in a sweet and sour asam laksa broth, is another flavour-loaded plate, as is that insatiable pandan creaminess of the pav spin-off. Smart service and food without whitewashing or gimmicks. This is how you Sunda. 

To read our full list of reviews for Victoria, head here.