But dig beneath all the gags, retro styling and laidback demeanour and you will find a professional crew with a fierce commitment to quality in all they do. The fiery maw of a wood oven dominates the squeezy kitchen, where three chefs work with impressive coordination. 

A single sheet menu splits the food between Pizza and Non-Pizza, with the majority of dishes from both lists having spent time in that oven. The fire does wonderful things to toasty brussels sprouts with pearl barley, romesco and burnt orange dressing, while also crisping up pecorino and breadcrumbs sprinkled over a ceramic bowl of gnocchi. Flank steak is expertly grilled and rested before slicing to serve with the bitter-sweet symphony of charred radicchio and syrupy vincotto.

Sunny’s pizzas are mostly recognisably Italian, but enhanced with a few cheffy touches to ensure each combination has plenty of punch. Even the “Hawaiian” gets its pineapple chargrilled, gabagool (aka capocollo) in place of the usual ham and splashes of a green chilli salsa that make the whole thing sing. Slices of a sweat-inducing pepperoni, squid ink cacciatore and olives are laid over a base slathered with onion confit as well as the regular passata.  

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.