Oh, and it also has one helluva setting, on a steep hillside above the road, looking across the water to American River as the sun dips from view and the bay is infused with a rosy glow.

Seats are available inside, out of the breeze, free from flies, but the better option is on a deck, where diners are comfortably spaced along park-style benches that could do with a cushion or two.

It’s not five-star comfort but just as special in its own informal way – particularly with a glass of something good and a starter of snook pate accompanied by house-made herb flatbreads still warm from the pan.

Ingredients from the island are scattered here and there on the menu, limited at least in part by difficulties in the supply chain.

So, there is a tartare of hand-cut KI lamb accompanied by beetroot relish and KI potato crisps. And KI whiting, coated in a “milanese” style parmesan crumb, with cabbage slaw.

Chicken from Fleurieu producer Nomad Farm is split into the roasted breast and legs that are shredded to make a rillette. The partner here is corn, both as charred kernels and a base layer of grits.

To finish, layers of puff pastry and (almond) frangipane are matched with honey ice-cream and fresh blackberries in a deconstructed “mille-feuille”.