Like an assured old soul, Supernormal Canteen has been here before.

One of 2017’s hottest restaurant openings began life back in 2013 as a 12-week pop-up in Fitzroy, a test kitchen precursor to the wildly popular Supernormal on Flinders Lane, which opened in 2014.

The latest in the family, Supernormal Canteen, is a faster, louder, more casual (and smokier, thanks to the yakitori grill) sibling from restaurateur Andrew McConnell. Taking up residence in the St Kilda digs once home to previous McConnell ventures Golden Fields and, more recently, Luxembourg Bistro, this eatery adds another distinct venue to the chef’s portfolio. Oh, and you can book.

McConnell, pleasingly on the pans this bustling evening, has found inspiration from Tokyo in both the food and the fit-out. But above all, this place is approachable and so much fun.

Use a little IKEA-style pencil to fill out your order form, then snap open some bamboo chopsticks to delve into school prawns, a crunchy debris of hot, fried crustaceans, garlic and panko crumbs on a bed of lettuce with pops of Kewpie mayo.

McConnell’s cash-cow lobster rolls join other greatest hits like the wickedly gooey peanut butter parfait with salted caramel, and the knockout DIY duck bao, a twice-cooked leg you fork into buns with cucumber and plum sauce, before dipping into black vinegar.

Also worthy of your time is the house-cured wagyu brisket that eats like melt-in-your-mouth folds of pastrami speckled with intense Sichuan pepper. Or try the cumin-laced lamb that’s slow-cooked before being shredded, fried and tossed in Sichuan dressing, along with punchy pickled cucumbers and crispy chilli, to apply to fluffy, steamed pancakes. Utterly delicious, every flavour works.

There’s a special on every night, and Sundays are all about the fried chicken. The yakitori, however, is always pumping, giving smokiness to prawns, duck hearts and corn-fed chicken meatballs that are tinged with ginger and garlic.

A killer drinks list includes the refreshing Umeshu Spritz, giving prosecco fizz to sticky-sweet plum wine, while desserts will have you swooning over the delightful nothingness of the kakigori, a Japanese shaved ice dessert, flavoured with malty popcorn that tops a lovely, light creme caramel. Or bow out with the taiyaki, a fish-shaped cake with a heart of Valrhona chocolate.

This den of good times, great eating and bright service is a must.