It’s a 60-seater with a Mad Men-goes-to-Tokyo vibe, with vertical blinds, a textured domed ceiling and a sushi bar that acts as a central stage, plus bar, booth and table seating. 

There’s a long, changing line-up of sashimi and nigiri, the fingers of glistening rice topped mainly with slivers of vibrantly fresh seafood, as well as sushi rolls and rice, sashimi, tempura and several grilled yakimono dishes including toothfish, duck and smoky wagyu tenderloin. Vegetable tempura wears its batter lightly, while seafood futomaki rolls are a more filling option.

As diners are seated, they’re rapidly offered a glass of Charles Heidsieck Champagne, with no price mentioned (it’s $35), offering a clue that while you can eat there for a reasonable price if you choose carefully, it’s probably not the right place if expenditure is a concern. Single nigiri cost from $8-$60 and tempura ranges from $21 for the vegetable version, through king crab and abalone up to possibly $320 for a whole lobster. Set menus and omakase are also on offer and there’s a small private dining room.

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