From the smart fit-out, complete with a statement bar, booth seating with smart red leather-upholstery, to the menu that works its way through a repertoire of Naples-inspired classics created with verve, this is a restaurant that caters well to all comers from romancing couples to groups.

Perhaps start with possibly the best calamari fritti in town, light as a feather and teamed with lemon mayonnaise before choosing, say, the sandcrab risotto with peas, chives, saffron and mascarpone or grilled gold band snapper teamed with fennel, capers, orange segments and pistachios.

Other choices include porchetta, chargrilled scotch fillet or rack of lamb. Don’t discount the pizza either, they’re very good, lovely and light with charry blisters on the crust.

Service is brisk and professional, the wine list is a tour of Italy with an excellent by-the-glass range, making this nine-year-old a reliable inner-city go-to for everything from simply a pizza with an Italian beer to the full degustation experience.