And with the informal arrangement of tables and benches in the adjacent Tasting Room, EEC offers a chance to appreciate the “paso doble” of food and drink in a way that is all its own.

Chef Josh Lansley (exPress) has put together a paredback menu that includes plenty of drink-friendly snacks and a strong selection of mid-sized vegie dishes that are fulfilling in their own right. There are also separate lists of platters and next-level toasties. Crispy confit potatoes – trimmed into neat, cube-shaped stacks, and sprinkled with celeriac salt – might have their origins in a Parisian bistro but are like a cross between hot chips and a pack of Pringles.

Crumbed croquettes crack open like an egg to release a cheesy white ooze containing jamon and Gruyere. Scorched leeks are matched with roasted hazelnuts, a preserved lemon dressing and blobs of hummuslike chickpea paste. Roasted pieces of hogget (older than lamb) are served on a bed of lush, buttery polenta with a reduction sauce, salsa verde and a few crumbs of fried nduja.

Along with its sibling Mother Vine on the other side of the laneway, EEC sets the standard for winecentred hospitality, whether you are eating or not. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.