Set behind striking, Iron Chef-inspired stainless steel doors in bustling Broadbeach, Ten is an unexpected Japanese den of deliciousness.

Glass meets steel and stone accents to bring a gravitas to the opulent space that wows without intimidation. Prime position is at the central curved teppan hugged by high-backed chairs where the team of chefs’ bring theatre and flavour together using the highest quality produce, say, 7+ or 9+ marble-scored wagyu.

Diners can choose from a tight a la carte menu offering the likes of oysters, tempura, miso-marinated Patagonian toothfish and lamb rump, or a variety of set menus, including the 12-13 course omakase where the chef takes control.

A popular starting point is a picture-perfect plate of sashimi and sushi, which shines away from popular fish choices to offer the likes of grouper, trevalla and swordfish. While, for a dish of considerable substance, there’s the wagyu beef cheek – achingly tender and yielding beneath a semi-sweet, viscous red miso and sake glaze. It’s well paired with a glass of the Kuroobi Yu-Yu sake from the detailed drinks list, which traverses sakes and shochu to cocktails and a thoughtful collection of interesting, global wines dotted with simple tasting notes to gently guide diners.

Also there to guide diners is the crack team of calming and attentive staff, which never misses a trick. While not for the traditional sweet tooth, take their recommendation of the ginger sorbet for dessert, featuring a single scoop of cleansing sorbet, fiery dried ginger chips, dense financier and clever tofu doughnut rolled in roasted soybean flour, and you’ll leave feeling zen.

Must-eat dish: Ginger sorbet