While it lacks the ring-a-ding bling of its new Mornington Peninsula neighbour Jackalope, or the timelessly gobsmacking views of Port Phillip Estate, 10 Minutes by Tractor remains one of the region’s favourite fine diners.

A recent refresh of the space has rendered the dining room as elegant and restrained as the estate’s famed wines. It makes settling in for Sunday lunch an even more alluring proposition, as does the leather-bound wine encyclopedia that’s one of the most brilliant lists in the land, an expert celebration of the area, while looking afar to the best in the world.

Stuart Bell’s food – refined French technique paired with the produce of the peninsula’s patch, has relaxed into the new room, and remains a compelling proposition.

While many make an occasion of it with five or eight courses, going a la carte affords equal pleasures, telegraphed by elegantly salty Parmesan tuiles that hit gratis followed quickly by a delicate amuse bouche – perhaps a tiny beetroot meringue with parfait, or kingfish with pickles. Rabbit tortellini is the stuff of dreams – fat parcels stuffed with leg meat and topped with pan-roasted loin, all finished in a thyme and onion broth of decadent depth.

Quandong (native wild peach) adds vibrant acidity to expertly roasted venison, while Great Ocean duck might come smoked and roasted, and served with mushrooms many ways for a hug of comfort.

To finish, the vanilla-creamy charms of poached pear with fig bread, goat’s cheese ice cream and grapes roasted until almost jam-like is hard to fault, while the impressive theatre of an espresso hand-pressed at the table is a fitting finale.

A new room and new energy gives this peninsula favourite life anew.

Must eat dish: Pan-fried rabbit loin
Instagram: @10xtractor