Lunching in the Terrace Restaurant at All Saints Estate after a cellar door-stop, you’re probably thinking big reds or fortified wines. But if one of its welcoming staffers asks if “you’d like to begin with bubbles’’, go for it. This historic winery on the banks of the Murray in Victoria’s northeast makes a fine-beaded sparkling that will team well with the starters chef Simon Arkless is sending out: the best being rare-breed Kurobuta Berkshire copacollo (charcuterie) with crisped quinoa and halloumi.

Arkless, a Brit, blends Euro smarts with a keen feel for regional produce. The suckling pig bedded down on parsnip puree and braised red cabbage was raised on the estate, while a baby chicken artfully arranged into a roulade is attended by pickled walnuts, broad beans and Jerusalem artichokes – all grown in the district.

This excellent food and wine, however, needs a better platform. It’s high time the Terrace, set under a marquee roof, dispensed with its walls of opaque plastic so we can drink in the view, and everything else All Saints Estate has to offer.

Must-eat dish: Roast roulade of baby chicken, pickled walnuts, broad beans
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