Warm house-baked nigella seed loaf spread with citrus butter is a welcome introduction to this surprising country restaurant on Auburn’s main drag.

You can’t miss it. By night, candlelight flickers through the former 1860s general store’s shopfront and during the day sunlight spills in through floor-to-ceiling windows.

Owner and chef Dan Moss grew up in Port Lincoln and, since moving to Clare in 2012, has championed the region’s produce on his locavore menu. Dan’s cheerful wife Annika works the floor, explaining the ingredients in the small but beautiful selection of starters, mains and desserts.

Pillows of potato and chive gnocchi bathe in charred spring onion vinaigrette and are sprinkled with dandelion and pistachio crumbs, while pancetta and pea risotto with seared king prawn, sorrel and caper gremolata is a medley of green hues and bright flavours, topped with crispy kale leaves.

Pumpkin crumble pie with mushroom and soybeans, jalapeno, cucumber and sumac yoghurt is an adventurous approach to vegetarian fare, and the mandarin meringue pie with coco anglaise and pistachio and honeycomb dukkah encapsulates winter comfort and rustic presentation. 

A fireside sofa adds to the pure country charm and is a great spot for an aperitif. The constantly evolving, small batch wine list focuses on Clare Valley varieties with a few international cameos.

If you want to indulge, there’s sweet accommodation available at the rear of the property.