Recent events have helped this restaurant fine tune itself, neatly paring back to a set tasting menu, albeit with a very accommodating chef when required. The ethos remains all about Clare on a plate.

Think chickpeas, lentils, linseed, and veg such as a starter of roasted carrot alongside red curried coconut. The veg theme can continue upon request, or, there will be a few exceptional local ring-in elements including superb little fillets of Coorong mullet, the toasty skins deliciously seconds shy of burnt. They hover over plump Kinkawooka mussels, crunchy ice plant and lightly pickled kohlrabi on a perfectly savoury/ tart rhubarb jus.

Then, owner/ chef Dan’s take on confit duck is a pleasing diversion. Lush tearaway flesh encased in a chewy rice flour and polenta crust is happily, unnoticeably, gluten free. A cannoli dessert might feature earthy linseed and almonds, again speaking of the Mid North.

In 2022, Dan and wife Annika are planning overdue sprucing of the website, the dining space, and upgrades to three charming cottages to the rear which are a comfy boon if your dinner is part of a getaway. 

To read our full list of reviews for South Australia, head here.