It’s impossible to compile any “best of” list without including the remarkable Tetsuya’s – a restaurant as synonymous with Sydney as the Opera House or Harbour Bridge since opening in 1989.

And although this Kent Street institution may not be making international waves like it used to — when bookings were required months in advance, the French/Japanese fine diner continues to push the envelope of purposeful cooking, thanks in part to the regular presence of its namesake owner, but also the introduction of Kevin Mok, elevated from sous chef to head chef in the past two years.

The Set in a tranquil Japanese house is a step back from the hustle and bustle of the CBD, the serene dining room overlooks a peaceful, Japanese-style garden and bubbling pond and serves as the perfect setting to indulge in the once-in-a-lifetime, 10-course degustation. It’s pricey ($230 per person without wine) but it is a showcase of impeccably sourced produce highlighted by seafood dishes you will not find anywhere else.

Dishes like steamed spanner crab with black radish and yuzu, or Hiramasa kingfish with white soy and avrugaor, or the . Of course there’s also his signature confit of ocean trout.

Must eat: Confit of ocean trout