We love to put things in boxes to better understand them, but in the restaurant world it’s becoming harder to pigeonhole venues. The lines between bar and restaurant have blurred, in sync with our desire to socialise more out of home.

Many places now allow you to choose your own adventure – whether it’s dropping in for a drink, bending the arm for an evening or eating food on par with leading restaurants. Think Embla in Melbourne, Sydney’s Bar Brose or in Brisbane’s case, The Apo.

Owned by the Moubment Group, (Gerard’s Bistro, Hatch & Co, Laruche), The Apo is housed in a circa-1862 former apothecary hall. Back in the day, Brisbanites went there to collect their daily prescription drugs, but now it’s a two-storey spot that’s altering perceptions on a decent night out.

An open kitchen and bar provides theatre to the moody ground floor, where those who want to dine get busy on the fork. This leads out to a giant alfresco courtyard, while upstairs is a startlingly bright cocktail bar.

Acclaimed chef Ben Williamson (ex-Gerard’s) has curated a Middle Eastern-inspired menu that has a few familiar favourites, too. It works well with the eclectic, though inviting, natural wine list.

Cornichons and juniper add vibrancy to smoked tartare served on large potato crisps. Pickled chillies and garlic yoghurt partner a spicy braised goat in a pleasing Mexico-meets- Middle East taco moment.

Larger dishes deliver big on flavour as well. A foamy whipped mullet roe adds richness to sweet Moreton Bay bug, though the black garlic is a little overbearing. But raisins, barberries and ribbons of cucumber add zing to half flounder, roasted on the bone.

The Apo represents new-wave dining where the patron holds all the cards. It deserves a full house.