A patriotic martini is garnished with Greece’s unmistakable blue and white flag – the herbaceous aperitif with rosemary-and-thyme-infused gin a signature drink at The Apollo. It’s the perfect tipple to stand up to Jonathan Barthelmess’ creamy taramasalata – a whipped mullet roe thickened with sourdough with a lovely, acidic tang.

The menu at the Apollo is classic Greek taverna fare, and the locals approve. It’s buzzing Monday-Sunday and the no-bookings policy isn’t a deterrent – nor is the playlist that ranges from deep house, to dub step and disco beats.

While the menu is full of Greek classics – think slow-cooked lamb shoulder, village salad and a flaky wild weed and cheese pie – occasionally Barthelmess steers into the realm of contemporary Greek, and he does it well, straddling a comfortable line of simplicity and experimentation.

Fried kefalograviera cheese theatrically bubbles in a hot pan of molten honey, while Greece’s traditional rice and meat vine leaves are transformed, filled instead with a rich pork ragu and roasted onions, and baked until dark and crisp. With a group, the very decently priced set menu for $60 a head is great value and features a selection of house favourites.

Loukoumades, a Greek-style doughnut, are served traditionally – drenched in honey with tangy yoghurt; but Barthelmess’ twist on baklava comes in the form of a walnut-stuffed cigar, wrapped in buttery filo and coffee cream, an homage to summer afternoons eating the sticky sweets with an espresso in Athens.

Must eat dish: slow-cooked lamb shoulder
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