Trends run so fast in Sydney that it sometimes seems you’ve only just caught onto one thing when the next arrives and you suddenly have to jump on it instead. This year, some of the hottest properties in town have been Paddington pubs. Which is crazy really since most of them have been around since the 1880s, and more or less in fashion ever since.

Still, you can’t stop people splashing big money on renovations (not that would we want to) and so in July the Bellevue Hotel reopened after a $2 million refit that took it from knockabout to knockout. In came an all-white front bar and a glistening new open-plan kitchen, complete with highly regarded chef James Metcalfe, as well as a stunning black dining room that’s all gloss and polish.

Metcalfe is a British-born chef with pedigree, having worked as celebrity chef Justin North’s head guy back in North’s heyday, and at Bellevue (like Madonna, the Bellevue has adopted a single moniker post-make over) has brought in a menu that reflects his classical training and Franglaise style. His is casual food done with elegance and flair offered as either three courses ($70), two ($55) or one ($35). But do order up, because, well, who wants to miss out on pudding?

From a shortish list of five entrees and five mains, caramelised pig’s head with ‘maple gastrique’ and peas French-style sounds downright challenging; but isn’t, actually. Rather, what arrives is a gorgeous mound of boned and confited meat fried until crisp, with sweet pops of spring pea and tendrils – a sophisticated starter. Luxe to the max is a main of caramelised spring chicken with sweet corn, potatoes and gravy so textbook it could be taught at catering school, the chicken moist and dripping with flavour. Then there’s more in the contemporary bistro style not seen as often as it used to be in Sydney: a sticky, fleshy roasted pork jowl with chard and roasted pineapple; a spring risotto of peas and broadbeans; tuna with fennel and pink grapefruit. And, yes, to finish: chocolate tart with salted caramel and earl grey ice-cream that’s worth the $15 investment.

This is a menu that has evolved for the better since its opening weeks, with the chef’s confidence continuing to grow. Good for him; no wonder he, and his pub, are back in fashion.

Tel: (02) 9363 2293

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