The Bridge Room, Sydney review (2016)

4. The Bridge Room, Sydney: stunning in its simplicity
At The Bridge Room, atmosphere, theatre and food come together to form a restaurant that has altered our perceptions of fine dining.

At The Bridge Room, atmosphere, theatre and food come together to form a restaurant that has altered our perceptions of fine dining.

The Bridge Room has only been around for a few years but already it feels like an institution that has altered our perceptions of fine dining.

A serious restaurant that has helped set the agenda with atmosphere, theatre and food that’s stunning in its simplicity.

Ross and Sunny Lusted’s vision of the ultimate Australian restaurant is, quite frankly, astounding. From the smart, sun-drenched Scandinavian-inspired feel of their re-imagined 1930s corner plot with French parquetry floors, deep mid-century Portuguese chairs and wide tables, to the textural and earthy succulents and felt placemats. It is art meets food without the snobbery.

Mirrors bend and hug the room, quirky artwork jumps from the wall without interrupting the ambience. It’s one of the most beautiful, yet relaxed, dining experiences in Australia.

It’s the perfect canvas for Lusted’s breathtaking food that’s underpinned by selective sourcing and astounding technical foresight, fuelled by the heat and delicate smoke of the robata grill to bring out the best of each ingredient. His food is layered, tactile and bursting with sunlight – just like the room during lunch.

Cured pork gets a side-kick in steamed scallop mousse while grilled banana shallots dance around Rangers Valley wagyu skirt. Then Carrot puree provides the perfect puddle for ash-grilled duck breast, before melon mellows and Lusted’s signature whipped black sesame sorbet.

Must eat dish: Whipped black sesame, toasted sesame powder, melon, puffed black rice, coconut sugar

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44 Bridge St Sydney NSW 2000

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