At just 30 seats, this classically appointed suburban bistro, with its golden glow beckoning through the shopfront glass panels, is all about intimacy. Guests take a seat at one of the bentwood chairs or along the tiled banquet in the relaxed room with its vintage light fittings, and wait for the professional and unobtrusive staff to guide them through chef-owner James Guldberg’s soulful, modern Australian fare.

While some dishes walk traditional European lines, such as blushing duck breast with rosemary jus-soaked Puy lentils and charred mustard greens; others embrace a more local direction using native ingredients. Take, for example, market fish, perhaps Cone Bay barramundi, which is gently lifted by a subtle hit of lemon myrtle alongside buttery sweet potato puree and minted blue peas.

Desserts lean towards the classics, all be it with a modern spin, such as the insanely rich black forest creme brulee with a thick chocolate custard harbouring kirsch-soaked cherries.

On Tuesdays and Wednesdays diners are encouraged to bring their own wine, making the restaurant a neighbourhood favourite. But those without a well-stocked home cellar can choose from a diverse and unique collection of New and Old World wines, which celebrates small producers and biodynamic offerings.

Must-eat dish: Duck with Puy lentils
Instagram: @catbirdseatbistro