Brisbane CBD favourite Urbane’s ground floor sibling excels in bistro fine dining with locally-sourced ingredients under the same head chef, Alejandro Cancino.

Dark timber floors, bentwood chairs and intimate lighting give the carriage-shaped restaurant a warm, cosy feel.

The menu, which can be vegan and gluten-free friendly, is considered, pairing subtle flavours with a few surprises, and a presentation that is thoughtful without being overly fussy.

The house-made bread comes as slices of soft, warm caraway rye with a side of smoked butter that is so good it should be available for purchase. And Dutch cream potato gnocchi won’t disappoint either, the tender pearls sitting in a rich pan-fried mushroom and porcini cream sauce with shavings of salty, aged Parmesan.

Creative cohesion is found in fried duck breast – perfectly cooked – with finely sliced fermented pumpkin and roasted Jerusalem artichoke brought together by a semi-sweet mandarin emulsion.

While a dessert of cardamom ice cream passed through liquid nitrogen before being smashed into small pieces and piled like snow over a mild liquorish mousse and smooth yuzu curd is a dish worth returning for.

There is room for improvement on the service front with staff lacking some detail and overall enthusiasm, but the remainder of the package – particularly Cancino’s crafty cooking – makes this bistro well worth a visit.

Must-eat dish: Pan-fried duck breast