The Dandenong Ranges are a long, long way from Argentina. But, thanks to Mauro Callegari, the tiny hamlet of Gembrook – where Puffing Billy runs out of steam from Belgrave – has an Argentinian restaurant and bar capable of transporting us to the land of his heritage, ‘Las Pampas’.

It’s called The Independent, it occupies a cunningly converted garage in the middle of town and heady aromas tantalise as soon as you settle into the lofty, high beamed, barn-like dining room.

Two wide-ranging menus – one plant based, offer fixed-price options with matching beverages (the drinks list runs from cocktails to local and Argentine wine, plus beer and ciders on tap and by the bottle). But it can be just as fun creating your own meal, especially if it opens with an exemplary beef empanada, a pleasingly sour palm heart ceviche with green chilli, or moreish smoky eggplant puree with cooling cucumber.

Allow an hour and Callegari’s crew will deliver some of the best roasted suckling pig this side of Western Plains (where they source their free-range piggies). No time to wait? No problem, The Independent’s slow-roasted Gippsland lamb shoulder can be yours in no time at all.

Then, just before you roll out for siesta, out comes house-made dulce de leche ice cream and cookie crumb for dessert.

We doubt they have it this good even in Argentina.

Must eat dish: Slow-roasted Gippsland lamb shoulder with carrots, chilli, coriander and peanuts
Instagram: @theindependentgembrook