There are few sweeter spots in the Hills than a window table at this very smart family-owned cellar door, where long views over paddocks and vines to the higher ranges set the scene for many a lazy Sunday lunch.

The light and airy bistro is the perfect vehicle for showcasing The Lane’s premium wines, and chef James Brinklow devises clever dishes to match: beef tartare with subtle Vietnamese flavours sits alongside a basket press shiraz; pan fried gnocchi with goats cheese and hazelnuts beside an elegant 2013 Beginning Chardonnay.

The lunch format requires guests to select two or three courses, and while this is more than ample be sure to start with a small ‘taste’ at the bar, perhaps a gougere stuffed with Woodside goat’s curd, dipped in local honey and fennel seeds. Follow with the creamy ox tongue topped with pickled enoki mushrooms and charred cucumber or 40-day aged Hereford striploin with Hills sprouts cooked three ways.

Desserts include a gleaming mahogany-coloured baked quince with nougatine, candied lemon rind and cream.

This review originally appeared on adelaidenow.com.au.