The odyssey that is The Long Apron’s tasting menu begins with a caraway grissini “tree” sprouting out of a small vase and might end with a bone marrow truffle. Five dishes form the core of the inventive $125 menu at The Long Apron (there is a vegetarian option), preceded by a run of amuse bouche such as the “tree” and a sandcrab taco topped with cured egg yolk.

The restaurant is part of the upmarket Spicer’s Clovelly Estate in the hills just outside the small Blackhall Range town of Montville in the Sunshine Coast hinterland. Diners will either be seated on the attractive stone-flagged patio overlooking the gardens or in the stylish dining room.

Service is professional and restrained throughout the meal, which officially begins with tuna, watermelon, roe, lardo and beach herbs, a surprising combination that works well. Next is a lovely clean-tasting hillock of chopped asparagus over pieces of oyster mushroom, brought together with a beer and onion reduction. Soft folds of thinly sliced slow-cooked lamb entwine with strips of eggplant and smoked yoghurt, with a pool of capsicum consomme added at the table.

Coal-grilled duck is matched with duck and date sausage, fronds of roasted kale, mulberries, dried plum and yeast cream. The dessert is something special, beeswax sorbet with roasted white chocolate, honeycomb and milk and honey meringue. This is stand-out creative cooking from chef Chris Hagan.

Matching wines are an extra $70, or there’s a comprehensive list of by-the-glass options on the globally chosen list to make it a long lunch at the Long Apron.

Must-eat dish: Beeswax sorbet dessert
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