From grab-and-go California rolls for lunch to something more special occasion at the likes of Minamishima or Kisumé, sushi is forever ingrained into our dining DNA.

But The Modern Eatery has now added a new sushi experience to the mix. Its specialty is aburi sushi where fish is lightly seared directly by a flame to coax more flavour.

The Perth import landed in Richmond back in August, seating 90 people over two storeys. The open-plan fit-out is sleek yet welcoming – timber tables with dark grey and bare brick walls and Kitty K, the good-luck neon cat, waving you in at the door.

Jump on the aburi bandwagon with the signature nigiri. Seven pieces of sublime sushi topped with New Zealand salmon, local yellowfin tuna and Hokkaido sea scallops are gently torched to unlock the rich oiliness of the seafood. The fish is super fresh and moulded onto good rice for melt-in-the-mouth morsels, all beautifully plated.

The pillowy bao – stamped with the kitsch Kitty K motif – are filled with juicy folds of grilled Wagyu, red pickle and crunchy aonori (green seaweed), providing tasty fun in a bun. Meanwhile, gyoza are pan-fried and plumped with pork.

Craft rolls are big hand rolls made for sharing, like the Love Me Tender encasing juicy chicken tempura with cucumber and avocado finished with generous daubs of house-made tartare.

Ramen and desserts – the chizukeki (vanilla cheesecake) in a glass is a delight – add to this newcomer’s appeal, as does its range of Japanese whisky, cocktails and sake.

Service can be a little green, but The Modern Eatery nevertheless happily sits between takeaway and fine dining with sushi that’s so hot right now.