What this compact, modern, subtly nautical 28-seater lacks in expanse, it more than makes up for in class and quality.

The North Room features just seven walnut-hued tables in the white and navy dining room, the rest of the seating is at the subway-tiled, marble-capped bar. At the helm of service Ksenia Karavenko (ex-Heston Blumenthal’s Dinner, Melbourne), who steers the multi-talented, highly knowledgeable crew, who juggle their time between waiting tables and making cocktails from a tight yet diverse and well-composed drinks list.

Chef-owner Tim Stewart brings his modern yet approachable style to the sharing menu in dishes such as deboned chicken wings – the pan-fried meat sitting on a base of smoked egg yolk and a textural jumble of grains and seeds, dressed with soured yoghurt and crowned by a nest of alfalfa sprouts for freshness.

More punchy is a taramasalata-esque whipped cod puree, visually reminiscent of the Sydney Opera House thanks to disks of crisp rye bread fanning out across its surface. Pickled onion rings bring notes of acidity, while saltiness comes from a scattering of plump white anchovies.

But perhaps the dish to win hearts is the beef short rib – achingly tender and accompanied by a moreish burnt onion and maple jam, plus shavings of cured egg yolk for even greater intensity.

The North Room may be small in size, but its highly skilled team delivers with gusto.

Must-eat dish: Beef short rib
Instagram: @northroommermaid