The Press Club looks more like the inside of a Greek magnate’s private jet than a taverna on Mykonos, but seated in this Athenian-inspired fine diner in the heart of Melbourne, it doesn’t take long to fall under the spell of true Greek hospitality.

Not when your six-course lunch or dinner begins with a herb-scented cocktail from the aperitif trolley and a round of teeny donuts for dunking in taramasalata.

“I’m an Aussie with a Hellenic heart,’’ owner-chef George Calombaris likes to say – and it shows in the likes of a foamy lemon soup flecked with mussels, seared mulloway splashed with a crustacean sauce, and lamb rump lolling on snowy sheep’s curd among vine leaves.

Tahini and halva animate a delectable chocolate dessert, while mini marshmallows – theatrically pegged to a miniature Hills Hoist –  come with excellent Greek coffee.

Like an attentive First Class crew, engaging floor staff get the vibe just right.

The Greek-leaning ‘Beverage Journey’ is an eye opener, if you can afford it. Otherwise, climb into one of those curvaceous Champagne-coloured booths with your aperitif, sit back, and enjoy the flight.

Must eat dish: Lamb rump, parsnip, sheep’s curd
Instagram: @thepressclub