I’ve never been so hungry I could eat a horse, as the saying goes. I’ve eaten horse, and it’s lovely, but not a whole one. I understand there are folks out there that find the notion abhorrent (cue more hate mail). One man’s horse is another man’s cow or pig or lamb, perhaps. Anyway, if you’re feeling that hungry perhaps you should visit The Stables.

The former stables of The Paddington Inn, its entrance on the slender backstreet, the building has retained much of its history and is worth seeking out. Horse isn’t served here, but it’s an homage to the era when hooves clip-clopped on the streets. The stunning sandstone façade frames a window offering a peak into a room of polished concrete floors, wooden beams and a long concrete bar.

That’s a good place to start with a cocktail, perhaps a Paddington Pash (cucumber, chilli, vodka, peach) if you’re feeling fresh, or a Fistful of Dollars (Scotch, Drambuie, honey, spices) if you want to grow hairs on your chest. Then saddle up for chef Thomas Gripton’s contemporary eats.

Gripton is an alumnus of Bentley and his food is delicious, though at times overworked. Avruga caviar tops poached spiny lobster flesh that’s a bit tight and wading in an overly grassy jus. But blue-swimmer crab blanketed with pasta, lolling in dashi and crab broth and accented with finger lime and egg emulsion is gorgeous. A fillet of John Dory works nicely with choko and a smoked eel and carrot broth, but the artichoke purée is a tad too much, while pork jowl is a show-stopper – rich, wobbly and tempered with garlic yoghurt and ribbons of celery – but gains nothing with the addition of crisped black rice and nori.

Gripton’s food is wonderful, but if he pulled back on the reins a bit and used a less-is-more approach, his food could be one of the first past the post.