The thought of giving up meat is one of the reasons why I could never adopt a life of veganism.

Well, so I thought until I dined at the new Greenhouse Canteen & Bar on the Gold Coast.

The Coolangatta sibling to the Mermaid Beach plant-based eatery of the same name is out to prove vegan food is for more than just dreadlocked, barefooted hippies or overzealous PETA supporters. And it’s succeeding.

The menu at the casual, rustic farmhouse-meets-hipster-chic venue is sprouting with plant-based “cheeses”, and the dishes are good – damn good.

So good, in fact, that neither the benevolent, young staff or the eatery itself feel the need to get on their humanely treated high horse and shout about their environmentally sustainable and ethical ways, they simply let the food do the talking.

The offering is divided into “small eats” and “big eats”, with familiar, approachable dishes such as arancini balls, antipasto boards, burgers, bolognese and nachos given a clever meat, dairy and egg-free twist.

A raw taco ($8), for example, features a crisp cos leaf loaded with powerfully spiced nut mince, citrusy avocado, red cabbage and a chipotle cheese.

The cheese and mince push you right to the edge of your saline tolerance, while chunks of cucumber and the vibrancy of lime bring you back from the brink to deliver a brilliantly balanced bite.

A macaroni and cheese dish ($15) dusted with cashew parmesan defies all expectations, delivering a lush, creamy and moreish bowl of al dente rice pasta in white sauce better than many of the cow’s milk versions served up at eateries across the state.

The true superstar though is the jackfruit enchilada. A beast of a dish big enough to almost feed two people, the Mexican-inspired wrap features the national fruit of Bangladesh, which, when cooked long and slow, develops the texture of pulled pork.

The jackfruit is served gently smoked with black beans, turmeric rice, avocado salsa, vegan sour cream, pickled red cabbage, cucumber, snow pea shoots, cheese, and a sprinkling of parmesan, making one of the best enchiladas I’ve had in Queensland – vegan or otherwise.

It also works well with my Harvest pinot gris from the tight but interesting list of predominantly organic or sustainable and biodynamic wines. As well, there is a small collection of twisted classic cocktails, plus beers and ciders from local breweries, including Pickled Pig and Stone & Wood.

Desserts change almost daily, and on our visit, an almost mellifluous vanilla coconut tart with an almond and date base and almond brittle shards provides a satisfyingly sweet way to finish what is a terrific meal.

So, to all the condemnatory carnivores out there detested by the booming plant-based movement, try Greenhouse Canteen. It may just be enough to have you turning over a new leaf.

This review originally appeared on couriermail.com.au.