I’ve always been more likely to howl at the moon than cock-a-doodle-do to the dawn of a new day.

Whether it’s the nature of the beast (doubtful), or the essence of the establishment (more likely), when I arrive at The Wolfe I immediately feel completely at home.

Beautiful black wrought-iron doors open into a contemporary-meets-classic bistro that combines white panelled walls, dark brown tables, pale grey chairs and red copper-hued floors.

On the fringe of Brisbane’s CBD, The Wolfe is marking its territory at the start of suburbia.

It’s a welcome return for chef and owner Paul McGivern (ex-Rapide and Manx) where he’s combining the depth of his experience with a willingness to expand his, and thus the diners’, perception of eating out in Brisbane.

It starts with some of the best service I’ve had. It was affable, professional and had plenty of personality without pushing it too far.

An engaging and eclectic wine list will please most patrons. You can even try a big Burgundy-style chardonnay, The Wolfe ‘From a Farr’, produced by the chef and his best friend Nick Farr.

McGivern’s food strikes a chord between the familiar and brave. Soft, sweet spanner crab comes to earth with salt-baked beetroot, while chilli and piquillo add an enjoyable exclamation.

Next kohlrabi two ways – pickled and soaked in squid ink – brings balance to seared skate wing and rich, plump lamb sweetbreads that could have been given a touch more time in the pan.

Brown puffed buckwheat tops spot-on suckling pig and is partnered perfectly with baked pear, but pickled muntries almost steal the show from a luxurious sheep’s milk sorbet.

The Wolfe may be a wonderful new addition to the Brisbane restaurant game, but if you’re talking great locals, it makes a strong case for pack leader.

If you like this, try…

Central: E’cco Bistro

The legendary venue opened by Phil Johnson back in 1995 has become the heartbeat of the CBD and is better than ever.

Central: The Foraging Quail

Head chef and owner Minh Le brings his Vietnamese heritage to this quirky modern bistro in New Farm.

Central: Public

Part bar, part restaurant, it’s a modern and innovative take on contemporary dining serving Australian share plates in the middle of the city.