Carlton is hardly in need of another Italian restaurant. But North Carlton? Now you’re talking. The same crew behind South Yarra’s tiny punch-above-weight Thirty Eight Chairs has transformed what was the storied Paragon Café into a north-of-the-river sibling on leafy Rathdowne St.

While the name’s the same, there’s more space — though the charm and hospitality that has made the original such a repeat-customer hit remains on show.

Pasta is the main focus, and it’s easy to see why the signature duck ragu (below)) is the most popular dish. Handmade reginette ricce — little curly pasta twirls — come tossed through  a deeply rich, porcini mushroom-strewn ragu for a bowl at once warming and comforting, perfectly seasoned and supremely delicious ($32). It’s completely lovely, the quality rivalling that of the more famous Tipo 00 in town.

Rigatoni in a pork and beef ragu ($29), classic spaghetti vongole ($29.50) and orchette with crunchy crumbs, anchovy and smashed peas ($26) all come cooked “nonna-style”, the pasta supple and soft, rather than al dente.

Alongside pasta, a changing risotto, meat and fish dish are offered each night, and the barramundi on offer was a study in textbook execution — the generous tranche of firm yet flaky flesh gloriously tender, with a tanned crisp crown of satisfying crunch. Served with a crunchy bread and tomato panzanella-style salad ($36), it’s a winner.

But not everything hit such highs. The fritto misto to start, though generous with whitebait and calamari and a few prawn tails, was pale and flaccid, the citrus mayo lacking any real bite ($24.50), while dessert is a complete miss.

A pre-portioned serve of tiramisu straight from the fridge made up for its lack of coffee and booze with too much cream ($15.50), while the “budino all’arancia” sounded more alluring than the grainy crème brulee it turned out to be ($16).

Much better to stick with the savoury, such as octopus to begin — an elegant plate of tender-soft tentacles served with potato and dressed in a bright garlic-vinegar-parsley mix ($18).

Four Italian wines on tap join a handful of Italian white and red varietals all offered by the glass and bottle. Campari, Montenegro and Aperol aperitivi are also offered.

Authentically accented staff welcome families and date-night duos with equal ease. Just a few months in, both floor and kitchen staff are working together well.

The pavement seating to take in the street’s village vibe is a warm night delight, while inside, timber floors, a long marble bar and a fetching light installation blend old and new in harmony. It’s bright by day, moody at night.

You’re paying for quality — almost $30 for pasta, mains mid-to high $30 — but it’s worth it.

This southside export has comfortably settled into its new home in the north and has some of the best pasta in the city. Pull up a chair.

This review originally appeared on heraldsun.com.au.