Thomson’s Reserve has a special ingredient you won’t find in any other kitchen – the historic building in which it sits.

Housed in the beautifully restored Art Deco New Inchcolm Hotel, it stars dark-stained silky oak panelling, bevelled glazing, and a New York-esque curved bar. The place drips with old-world charm and that extends to the service, which is attentive, thoughtful and on point.

The cooking – like the building – is an artful exercise in balance and proportion. Dishes are intelligently presented with some unexpected flavours teased out of the main ingredients. Take, for example, a spanner crab salad with the crustacean meat interspersed with sorrel, grapefruit and walnut pieces all brought together with the help of crème fraiche on the side. Or, perhaps, the restrained and harmonious pan-seared kingfish with peas, ham and delicate herb leaves sprinkled around a cylinder of potato.

Mains walk a multicultural path, taking inspiration from Asia, Europe and the Middle East. Sumac-spiced lamb pitted against refreshing lettuce leaves scattered with freekeh ‘rice’, anchovies and native pigweed shoots is a shining example of harmony.

Desserts match the luxury of the room, extending from the likes of burnt butter ice cream with cinnamon crumbs, caramel and toasted parfait to blood orange with chocolate and an olive and onion sherbet.

Matching the food is a solid, predominantly Australian wine list balancing big name labels with boutique offerings.

Must-eat dish: Kingfish with peas and ham
Instagram: @thenewinchcolmhotel