With expansion often comes dilution. But not for Three Blue Ducks. Despite other outposts in Rosebery, Byron Bay, and now Brisbane and coming this summer, Melbourne, the Macpherson Street original still heaves with a sun-kissed brunch set vying for tables. After-dark Wednesday to Saturday, however, it’s less manic. A waiter (who looks a lot like a star from <Lords of Dogtown>) greets us like old friends. A savoury, South Australian nebbiolo, chosen from a list with plenty of organic or biodynamic options, is poured with confidence. It’s a great match for a plate-long quinoa cracker piled unfussily with flakes of hot-smoked bonito, cornichons, fresh dill and plump sea succulent. It might be winter outside, but the Ducks have an uncanny way of making it feel like summer year round. Like the interiors, dinner here is pared back and unpretentious; the menu split simply into smalls, bigs and sides. A little more attention could be paid to the details. The Iggy’s sourdough, matched with a delicious spiced carrot dip, would be better warmed. As would the ’90s-esque rectangular plates. There’s also no sign of a steak knife when it comes time for the main event: a generous garlicky bone-in steak, crowned with a wodge of pickled cabbage that glows pink in the candlelight. When a citrusy crema Catalana hits the table next, all roads lead to amaro. And that’s the Ducks vibe. A little rough around the edges, but with a flavour like you’re already at home. Settle in.