The crowds of eager brunchers who still fill the pavement outside Bronte’s Three Blue Ducks suggest the Rosebery outpost has done little to lessen the appeal of the original Ducks in the east. The third Byron Bay location boasts an unending bustle of local holiday makers, too, keen for the Ducks’ deeply satisfying, pared-back style of food.

But what about dinner? Bronte offers after-dark dining Wednesday to Saturday, and the atmosphere is less cultish than the brunch madness. In fact, on a chilly early spring evening, you could be forgiven for finding the space a little cold, lacking a piece of its sun-kissed, sand-sprinkled heart.

Keen service gets oysters with a simple vinaigrette on the table in no time, though the wine hasn’t appeared by the time the next two dishes land, and we have to raise an empty glass. Still, that’s fixed quickly and Friday night can resume.

Divided into ‘smalls’, ‘bigs’ and ‘sides’, the menu boasts unfussy food with plenty of herbs and spices sprinkled throughout. Sweet potato hummus topped with crispy charred onion comes with huge hunks of beautifully fresh sourdough, and we have to remind ourselves there’s more to come before devouring the lot.

Kingfish tostadas burst with a delightful mixture of pineapple, coriander, shredded cabbage and chilli mayo. Messy, full of flavour and wonderful. Sirloin steak is cooked on the robata grill, keeping it crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. A little overcooked for the medium-rare requested, but delicious all the same. Crispy chicken with a shredded carrot and bean sprout salad is beautifully balanced with nam jim and crunchy cashews, with a leafy salad with green grapes, celery, walnuts and salad cream is a playful take on a classic Waldorf.

When it does come, wine begins at a very reasonable $9 a glass and the list is as unfussy and easy to navigate as the food menu, however you will find interested organic options among more recognisable bottles.

With knowledgeable service, tasty food and a comfortable wine list, dinner at Three Blue Ducks is perfectly nice, but brunch is when this beach babe really shines.

Must eat dish: Kingfish tostadas
Instagram: @threeblueducks