With three cracking venues, the boys from The Ducks have managed to sum up Australian everyday food like no other over the last few years.

The third addition housed in the former Kitchen By Mike in Rosebery embodies the same ethos behind all their cookery, but the food is more confident and better executed, signalling their ongoing evolution.

Two of the ducks, chefs Mark LaBrooy and Darren Robertson, sharpened their knives at Tetsuya’s but traded in chef whites for boardshorts to focus on “real food”.

In a cavernous, industrial post-warehouse space, the Ducks’ ethical and sustainable mantra rolls on, but they’ve added ex-MasterChef heart-throb Andy Allen to the mix.

A woodfired oven inside is backed up by a monster Argentinian wood-barbecue in the courtyard where they slow cook whole beasts.

Meanwhile, a charred blue mackerel is beautifully cooked and arrives on an eggplant puree and herbed labneh. Pecan cream balances the nuttiness of roasted brussels sprouts.

A velvety chicken liver parfait is balanced by the sour, sweet twang of cumquats. Then a heady broth houses pig flesh and popped clams decorated in chopped chilli. It’s the real deal.

Desserts are a fairly simple affair. A banana tarte tatin and vanilla ice cream is solid, while honeycomb stars in a chocolate and mandarin montage.

To label this everyday eats is unfair. Sure the price is right, but this is next level everyday eats that’s raising the game in our food scene.

Must eat: Whole baked tiger flathead with celeriac, hazelnut and capers