Is it little wonder Melbourne’s most famous pasta bar is as pumpingly busy on a cold winter’s Monday as it is a summer’s Friday night? 

Sure, it’s now firmly placed on many a tourist’s must-do Melbourne list, but Tipo 00’s charms are such that rather than becoming a victim of its own success, this loud little laneway space is as good as ever thanks in part to terrific staff who manage the throngs, and pasta that remains utterly queue-worthy.

And why wouldn’t the world want to experience the simple pleasure of spreading fresh ricotta on crunchy warm focaccia to begin? Or such signatures as a knockout tortelloni, stuffed with mushrooms and served with fat, buttery pine mushrooms atop, feathery gnocchi tossed through braised duck, and hazelnutty rabbit to twirl through supple pappardelle ribbons?

Experienced players know to ask for guidance with Luke Skidmore’s wine list filled with little-seen Italians, and to order non-pasta dishes that are equally compelling. Whether just-warm beef carpaccio drizzled with parmesan oil and bolstered with borlotti beans, or pan-seared calves’ livers in a sticky balsamic glaze, or a perfectly treated veal T-bone with grill-crunchy brussels sprouts and roasted chestnuts to follow, this is rustic Italian served with a Melbourne eye. No wonder it’s packed.

Must Eat Dish: Mushroom tortelloni