There’s nothing especially on-trend about the menu, rather it’s an array of the classics, with some modern tweaks, executed very well.

Service is attentive, the wine list laced with Italian selections and starters range from simple bruschetta with an array of toppings to roasted octopus with green beans, black olive tapenade and broccoli.

Next might be a gnocchi special with butter and parmigiana sauce, broadbeans and peas over which truffle is shaved at the table; Moreton Bay bugs with English spinach, buffalo mozzarella and bisque reduction or oyster blade slow cooked in sangiovese reduction.

Floors are polished concrete, chairs are upholstered for comfort, there’s a bar for warm-up drinks and at the heart of the room, outside the main kitchen, a pizza oven glows with coals, ready to dispense a wide array of rosse and bianco creations, including an excellent margherita.

Finish with perhaps almond and pear cake with marsala and egg gelato or a classic tiramisu served in a large glass.