Holding its own as one of Sydney’s hippest restaurants for a decade, Toko’s cutting-edge Japanese dishes just keep the customers coming.

For the uninitiated, a meal here should begin with the deliciously messy edamame doused in chilli sauce, followed by a sashimi, few better than the sliced kingfish swimming in tangy yuzu and truffle oil. Lash out with Moreton Bay bug tempura – juicy fat chunks piled high and served piping hot with silky yuzu mayonnaise. Then plough into the giant king prawns served fresh off the robata grill, split in two and slapped with kombu butter. The signature black miso cod is another absolute must. Glazed in sakyo miso, it falls away flake-by-flake and melts on the tongue.

Must eat: the black cod with miso