Restaurant precincts have become the social hub of the modern working world. Gone are the days of horror CBD food courts, and in their place, a myriad of businesses trying to raise the game on everyday eats.

There’s been little written about Gateway at Circular Quay, but it’s housing everything from Neil Perry’s Burger Project to Gelato Messina. Tokyo Laundry, the latest venture from Melbourne restaurant mogul David Loh, is the newest addition to the ensemble.

Designed by Melbourne firm Architects Eat, the first floor eatery features polished concrete floors, black wooden chairs and soft purple linen draped in ripples across the ceiling and on wall dividers. There’s also an oyster and champagne bar as well as views overlooking the lawn on Loftus St.

Staff are friendly, if a little green, and the sake offering is a bit light on, but the extended wine menu should suit the CBD audience.

The food is fairly safe, well-executed modern Japanese fare that’s designed to share – think pork belly bao sliders or sushi rolls. But it can get a bit pricey.

Sashimi of kingfish, salmon and tuna delivers a firm mouthfeel. And a light tempura batter allows plump king prawns to come to the fore.

Red miso with wakame and tofu has a pleasurable depth and richness – so too the miso-marinated black cod. Fried silken tofu with a medley of braised mushrooms is solid, but scampi and caviar nigiri is the star of the show, with the crustacean’s sweet, creamy flesh making for quite the mouthful.

But not everything hits the mark. Gratin of scallop is overcooked and seems a waste of such a delicate, sweet protein, and grilled corn with miso butter is a tad underwhelming.Nevertheless, Tokyo Laundry provides a nice respite from a busy day.