Indian food given a thoroughly modern Melbourne stamp is yours for the taking at Adam D’Sylva’s sleek celebration of the subcontinent. The elegant dining room with its mesh-cloud installation transports you a world away from the grungy Melbourne laneway outside.

Food-wise, tradition is respected – that tandoor oven pumps juicy lamb cutlets and a mean pork tikka – but is not slavishly adhered to. Calamari with subtle five spice, flanked by celery pickled onion sits on a bed of squid ink boondi, a crispy popped snack elevated with sepia. Piped pools of avocado raita add vibrancy and freshness.

Naan is charred and puffy, and sides are certainly no afterthought. Fried cauliflower heady with garam masala salt, fenugreek and yoghurt dressing commands the same attention as the Duck korma with apple and vanilla-spiced beetroot.

Butter chicken fails to excite, but a strong dessert game brings us home strong with the wind of a pretty bombe Alaska with green apple and bergamot in our sails.

Staff are attentive, informed and friendly, tending to first timers as much as rusted-on regulars with punchy cocktails and a Euro-leaning wine list.

Must-eat dish: Five-spice calamari
Instagram: @tonkarestaurant