The city has been blossoming of late with a banquet of new cafes and restaurants opening. From cool chocolate and cocktail bars hidden behind barn doors in Melbourne-esque alleys, to hip burger joints and funky fast Asian eateries, you can find it in Toowoomba.

Putting its own stamp on the local dining scene is Zev’s Bistro, with chef-owner Kyle Zevenbergen delivering distinctly modern fine dining cuisine that isn’t afraid to edge outside the box.

The well-versed, earnest staff explain the generous menu, broken down into starters and snacks like pork scratching with radicchio and red-eye mayo; share-style plates such as barbecued asparagus with buckwheat, horseradish and macadamia; plus a collection of more approachable dishes cooked on the grill like fish, steaks, chicken and pork.

There is clear thought behind each dish, but just like anyone trying to push boundaries, sometimes you’ll be like Sally Pearson, clearing hurdles with ease, and other times you’ll trip flat on your face.

The food at Zev’s is both gold medal worthy and also representative of a slight stumble, rather than a straight leg-buckelling, pancake-on-the-ground moment.

Worthy of ovation is the whipped smoked salmon ($23), echidna-like in its presentation with rows of ragged-edged potato wafers protruding from the mound of sharp, acidy blended fish. It’s not only visually striking but expertly balanced.

The Humpty Doo farmed barramundi ceviche ($27) is a little more controversial, the raw fish a little too “fishy”, but cleverly complemented by slivers of radish and plum and an XO mayo. The gold medal goes to the lamb neck ($34). Hidden under a charry fan of enoki mushroom, it is meltingly tender but robustly flavoured with licorice, while julienne turnip provides crunch and an onion puree amplifies the sweetness of the meat.

Roasted zucchini ($17) with torn bocconcini in a sweet broth is a nice accompaniment, though the baby carrots cooked in coffee ($17) have a little too much bitterness from the caffeine beans.

The textures of strawberries dessert ($15) features freeze dried, fresh and macerated berries clinging to a clod of intensely rich chocolate mousse, scattered with a toasted coconut crumb and nuggets of chewy honeycomb, sticky enough to render your jaw shut. It’s pleasant enough without being outstanding.

What is impressive though is the restaurant’s trio of artworks. Striking portraits of three women, they are cleverly painted onto pages of a recipe book by the chef’s brother.

They give a focal point to the modern minimalist room which delivers elegance with its long, chef’s table, handsome tiled wall and warming pendant lighting, yet is decidedly casual thanks to cafe-style timber tables and chairs.

But perhaps that best describes Zev’s, it’s a juxtaposition of the approachable and laid-back with the sophisticated and distinguished.

This review originally appeared on couriermail.com.au.