But even in the depths of winter, a visit to Topiary is one of the state’s great dining surprises. Owner/chef Kane Pollard directs a menu that is fiercely local, dictated by seasonality and daily foraging, guided by a sustainable, nonna-style frugality.

Everything is made in-house, even the cheese, with not a skerrick wasted. Spent sourdough mother starter is used in a dainty cracker topped with creamy cauliflower, caramelised into an ambrosial vegetable that even the pickiest toddler would be happy to eat.

Part of a trio of Instagrammable starters in a great-value tasting menu, cauli is topped with wild mushrooms nestling in pine needles. Woody herbed potato, aka the world’s best hash brown, is arrayed with Hills autumn leaves. Perfectly grilled abalone topped with zingy finger lime rests in the shell.

Pollard’s flavour combos are wonderful, in dishes such as crispy kale and little sprouts with whipped feta and a pumpkin XO; smoked mussels on a rich crumpet snuggled in a dollop of fermented tomato; outrageously good corned beef with grilled cabbage and pickled native berries. The local wine list is small but well edited, while service hits the right balance of friendly and professional.

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