Service can make or break a dining experience, and at this smart modern Australian restaurant, it makes it.

Let the charming and charismatic staff welcome you into the buzzing dining room, being sure to book a table along the river outside for a more romantic vibe, and let the knowledgeable team guide your choices.

The menu is East-meets-West, with European favourites like pillowy goat’s cheese gnocchi, pan-fried til golden and crisp on the surface and tangy with the fromage sitting alongside Asian-influenced offerings such as tamarind pork belly with sesame prawns, persimmon and lime.

This is thoughtful fare, delivering creativity and flavour in equal doses.

And the approach carries through to dessert, as native Australian ingredients pop up to give classic dishes a twist, such as with a wattle seed custard tart and parsnip ice cream.

There’s also a full and generous menu for vegans and vegetarians.

The wine list could do with more imagination and scope, but the cocktails are well made, particularly a plum sour.

Whether you’re after a special occasion restaurant or just want to treat yourself, A Touch of Salt delivers.

Exceptional dish: Goat’s cheese gnocchi