Don’t be spooked by Transformer’s commitment to “innovative plant-focused dining”.

What it simply means is they work wonders with fruit and vegetables. Grilled persimmon with saffron, whipped ricotta and grains of paradise. King oyster mushrooms with pine nut puree and smoked shallot… Transformer can really turn a carnivore’s head.

Start with the snacky chickpea panisse, showered with parmesan, or nicely charred flatbread for dunking in a spiced pumpkin dip. Both will sit well with one of Transformer’s exotic elixirs. The purple glowing G&T is a doozy.

Among bigger plates, we relished Parisian gnocchi in sage and onion butter, and an autumnal leek tarte tatin sticky with honey. Transformer closes the circle with smart service, cool music and a fit-out dense with greenery. The message is clear: they’re friends of the earth. And, therefore, so are we.

Must Eat Dish: Leek tarte tatin